Antaghar: The tale of 19th-century Europeans-only club in Dhaka

When Sufi bhai (historian Hashem Sufi) mentioned that Antaghar was established in around 1830, I asked him what the significance of that time period was. Sufi bhai dropped a hint: the Permanent Settlement was introduced in 1793. 

By dint of the Permanent Settlement, all the huge zamindaris of the Mughal rulers and their high officials began to break apart. A number of new but smaller estates emerged as a consequence. 

Concurrently, there was a rise in the number of title holders such as Lakherajdar, Faujdar, Talukdar, Tohsildar, Mutsuddi, Gomasta, Paikar, and Koyal. As a result, the number of consumers increased more than before. Sufi bhai suggests that this period marks the onset of the middle and upper middle class. 

The shipments on the camel's back

Merchant groups benefited greatly as consumers grew. Notably, the profits within the households of genuine Armenian traders saw a substantial increase. Similar to Dutch, French, Portuguese, Danish, British, or Greek merchants in Dhaka, these Armenian traders did not need to undertake overseas voyages to reach India. 

Being a Central Asian country, Armenia was well known for the Silk Route and the Grand Trunk Road. They had the capability to transport at least one shipment to Dhaka every three months using camels and horses. These consignments comprised a diverse range of items such as perfumes, cosmetics, dry fruits, clothing, jewellery, and more. The horse trade, in particular, flourished due to the renowned quality of Central Asian horses.

They used to take muslin, spices, metal products, agricultural products to Central Asian countries in the return shipment. In the early and even mid-19th century, Armenians continued to trade overland. And at Sadarghat (Persian word Sadar means centre) their trading ships were also used to bring jute, salt and leather. By engaging in both land and sea trade, they accumulated considerable wealth, establishing Armenian dominance in Dhaka during the early 19th century primarily due to their affluence.

Armenian Club aka Antaghar

Due to their wealth, Armenians took the lead in establishing the first European-style club in Dhaka, known officially as the Armenian Club. However, among the common people, it became popularly referred to as 'Antaghar'. And the reason behind this is also quite fascinating. 

The room had an oval shape, featuring a billiard board positioned in the centre. Notably, the billiard balls used in that era were not spherical; instead, the white and red balls were crafted from china clay (porcelain) or stone, resembling eggs in shape. Consequently, among the local Dhakaiyas, the room became recognized as a place for playing 'Anda' (eggs). This association led to the colloquial shortening of its name to 'Antaghar'.

The room was located in the middle of a field. Later the field came to be known as Victoria Park or Bahadur Shah Park. However, during that time, the local people commonly referred to the ground as 'Antaghar Maidan'.

Sufi bhai estimates that around 1830 the European population in Dhaka exceeded five thousand. The room was made of mud, nine-inch bricks, lime and powdered brick. As can be easily inferred, there was a lively gathering of playing cards in Antaghar. The establishment featured facilities for drinking, a system for serving food with attendants, and a functioning kitchen. Operating hours were from 5pm to 12am.

When I inquired about the lighting system in the room, Sufi bhai informed me that hazak lamps (pressurised kerosene lamps) were suspended above the billiard board. Additionally, there were likely torches positioned on the walls and near the front door to provide illumination in Antaghar.

Some used to come to this room on horseback, while there was also a horse-drawn tomtom cart available. However, a majority of Europeans lived within walking distance. 

Not just an entertainment centre 

Antaghar served not only as an entertainment centre but also as a crucial gathering place for Europeans in Dhaka. It functioned as a home away from home for many, providing a space where different groups could convene for various purposes. Some groups would discuss business plans, while others might gather for a concert or simply to relax and share personal experiences. 

On Sundays, it was not uncommon for as many as 150 people to attend. Despite its significance as a social hub, the tradition of organising birthday parties outside the house had not yet started during that time. Consequently, Sufi Bhai believes that there were no arrangements for birthday celebrations within Antaghar at that point.

It could also be considered as a centre for business transaction and arbitration settlement. And of course, the access to Antaghar was restricted, and no natives had entry. It was literally a Foreigners' Club.

The Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 brought about a great change in the entirety of India. It ultimately led to the end of East India Company rule. In Dhaka, specifically at Antaghar Maidan, a grim event occurred where 11 sepoys were hanged from a tree. This incident instilled fear in the public consciousness regarding the place. Additionally, various ghost stories circulated, contributing to a sense of unease and apprehension. As a consequence, Antaghar faced a decline and eventual closure.

Following the mutiny, the British Raj assumed control, and the British East India Company sought to consolidate its dominance over trade and commerce. This led to the displacement of Armenians in Dhaka, pushing them to relocate to Kolkata. This trend persisted over the next few decades.

The emergence of the European Club

Despite the departure of Armenians, the demand for community clubs persisted. Subsequently, under the leadership of the English, the European Club was established in Antaghar's place shortly after its closure.

Similar to Antaghar, the European Club maintained exclusivity for foreigners. The local elites of Dhaka were angry that they had no access to the club, prompting them to express their objections through formal notices. The objections of Ahsan Manzil's Nawab family members were strong. They probably had the support of influential figures like Ruplal Das. 

When the notices did not yield the desired results, the frustration escalated to the point where local elites stormed the club. In response, the Europeans modified the restrictions slightly, allowing local elites access to the club under various conditions. 

Hashem Sufi said, "The British were determined to ensure that the natives came to the club in British style. Accordingly, they introduced a dress code."

Suits, pants, shirts, along with shoes and socks were included in the dress code. The British then made three types of shoes - Cambridge, Oxford and Derby. One was completely round, the other slightly square. If one did not wear them, he could not enter the club. 

Even not all categories of foreigners were welcome in such private clubs. Senior government officials like District Commissioner, Collector, Sub-Collector, Session Judge, Forest Officer, Superintendent of Police, Bankers were given preference. Wealthy businessmen were also welcomed as members. 

The European Club was in Antaghar Maidan until 1888. Then it moved further south with the name Dhaka Club and got bigger in size.

The eggs are stored in the Dhaka Kendra

The Dhaka Kendra is in the Maula Bakhsh Sardar Memorial Trust Building in Farashganj. This institution practises the history and traditions of Dhaka. There is also a museum there, where several artefacts of the past Dhaka are arranged. 

Wandering around one day I was attracted by a few balls in a clay pot. Underneath was written – 'Porcelain brick'. Having some knowledge about Antaghar, I realised that these were the balls with which the Armenian sahebs used to play billiards.

I asked Azim Bakhsh, President of Dhaka Kendra, how he collected them. He informed that the eggs were kept in their house. His father (Mowla Bakhsh Sardar, founder of Farashganj Club) used to say that these were the toys of the Sahibs. 

"But I saw a billiard board in the room of Northbrook Hall (known as Lalkuthi) which was used as a library till some time ago. As a child. I also saw all the nobles, including the barrister of the court, dressed in dhoti, playing billiards. I remember the board was made of something hard like rough stone, with a velvet cloth on it. The stick was also quite heavy," Azim said.

When the original building was renovated by the Public Works Department, the library was shifted to the billiard room, and the board was placed under the supervision of the Farashganj Sporting Club. Such balls were also used in that board. "These balls too may have been obtained from that club," Azim made an assumption. 

Dhaka Club in Shahbag-Ramna

In 1910, the Dhaka Club was shifted to Shahbag-Ramna. The club land settlement was taken from the Nawab Estate. The place then had a bungalow of the East Bengal-Assam government. But the place was more popular as a racecourse.

According to the Dhaka Club Chronicles written by Waqar A Khan published by the Dhaka Club, in 1911 the club got legal status under the Indian Companies Act of 1882. After the partition of Bengal in 1905, Dhaka began to emerge as the provincial capital. The British who arrived in the new province were decorating the Dhaka Club on the model of the Bengal Club of Calcutta. 

The old Gymkhana Club was merged with the Dhaka Club early on. As a result, the management of the races and the income earned from them came under the control of the club. That is why it became the most prosperous club in Bengal. 

While clubs like Chittagong and Jalpaiguri included members such as tea planters and prominent businessmen, the Dhaka Club outshone them all in terms of the betting stakes involved.